Bichotan Chicken, Gula Apong &
Tempoyak (Fermented Durian)
From the rivers, we venture into the dense rainforest. The lights dim to emerald hues as you envision towering trees and a crackling fire under the jungle sky. This course, “Forest,” is inspired by the indigenous practice of cooking with fire and smoke amid nature.
At its heart is free-range chicken, marinated in a medley of native spices. We grill it over Binchotan charcoal – a Japanese technique meeting Bornean tradition – to replicate a forest barbecue. The charcoal’s searing heat locks in juices and infuses a whisper of smokiness, as if the chicken were roasted over an open campfire deep in the jungle night.
We glaze the meat with gula apong (Sarawak’s wild palm sugar), reduced with Bario cinnamon and a wild leaf called ipah kayuh. This ipah kayuh is a hidden jungle herb famed among local tribes for its uncanny ability to amplify umami – a secret of the forest’s flavour. The glaze caramelizes on the charred chicken, imparting sweet, smoky, and spicy notes that speak of ancient trees and campfire tales.
Beneath the chicken lies a bed of cassava leaf and tempoyak crème – cassava leaves slow-cooked until velvety, blended with rich coconut cream. This reflects the resourcefulness of Sarawak’s people, who transform even cassava greens (often discarded elsewhere) into comforting fare.
Beside it is a dollop of tempoyak durian crème – a bold fermented durian custard, silky and pungent in the most delightful way. Fermentation is the forest’s alchemy, a tradition shared by Sarawak’s communities who ferment durian to preserve its lush flavour.
Here, it’s tamed into a savoury crème, providing tang and depth akin to a fine aged cheese or truffle.
Together, the smoked chicken, sweet glaze, herbal umami, creamy leaves, and tangy durian form a symphony of jungle flavours. Each bite is an expedition: smoky char and caramel give way to bitter greens and a zing of fermented fruit. This course embodies “the essence of jungle smoke, ferment, and tradition.”
As you taste it, imagine a gathering around a fire in a longhouse clearing – diverse tribes sharing techniques and ingredients, united by the forest’s bounty. We celebrate how Sarawak’s people ingeniously use every forest resource, practicing sustainability long before it was a global buzzword. Inclusive representation lives on this plate: techniques and ingredients from Malay villages to Iban longhouses come together, preserving heritage without appropriation – simply presented with respect and love.
Ultra‑clean Japanese white oak charcoal prized for its long, smokeless burn and neutral impact on natural food flavor.
Caramel‑flavored palm sugar made from sap of the nipa palm, native to Sarawak’s mangrove ecosystems.
A fragrant cinnamon variety grown in the Bario Highlands, valued for its mild warmth and local terroir.
Traditional medicinal herb used by Kelabit communities in Borneo for wound healing and internal cooling effects.
The edible leaves of the cassava plant, commonly used in Sarawakian cooking for their earthy, slightly bitter flavor.
A savory Southeast Asian condiment made by fermenting durian flesh with salt for several days; tangy, pungent, and rich in probiotic flavors.